Unveiling the Magic of Elasticity
Transforming hair flexibility with curly methods
When we start the hair washing process at Inhairitance, our primary focus is on thoroughly wetting the hair. During this phase, which can last anywhere from 3 to 5 minutes, our hairdressers gently pull on the hair and smooth down the cuticles while ensuring that water penetrates through the hair's pores. The amount of time spent on smoothing the cuticles depends on the hair's porosity. If the client's hair has high porosity, meaning it has many pores, less time is required for the hair to absorb water. However, even in cases of high porosity, some smoothing is necessary to maintain well-laid cuticles and prevent tangling during shampooing. It's important to continue smoothing the cuticles downward. This gentle pulling on the hair enhances its elasticity and creates more space between the protein bonds in the hair strands. The hair's elasticity determines how much water needs to be gently encouraged into the hair before detangling with appropriate tools. If the hair is too elastic, it may feel like it's melting in the hands, especially when wet. Therefore, it's crucial to handle the hair with care during the initial stages of the wash routine to prevent breakage. By following a curl-centric routine, we aim to preserve the natural curl pattern and avoid reaching a point where the hair becomes overly elastic, resembling a jellyfish. Let’s delve deeper into this method to understand how to optimize early hair elasticity, while studying the behaviors of its properties, which stem from its internal helix-shaped protein structure. This understanding plays a vital role in creating a transformative and healthy hair care routine.
The connection between elasticity and protein bonds
The types of bonds involved in the protein structure of our curls are “peptide bonds, ionic bonds, disulfide bonds, hydrogen bonds and hydrophobic interactions”*. In fact, the hydrogen from water is the bonding between the links. The hydrogen bonds are more pronounced when the hair fibers are hydrated because “keratin has a special affinity for water. This absorption depends on the air relative humidity rate and greatly interferes on all properties of the hair, as: stretching ability, diameter and internal viscosity of the fibers”**. When we chelate the hair with a higher pH solution, we are attempting to remove heavy metals and other occlusive agents. However, something else happens in the process. On a micro level, the disulfide bonds are relaxed, causing the hair to absorb more water which improves the hair elastic features†. Our objective is for the hair to absorb as much water as possible for hydration and to prevent breakage caused by a dry cross-section of protein in the cortex of the hair. Alternatively, when the focus is on straightening the hair, water absorption is dismissed, as the ultimate goal of straightening hair is to dry it out for longer-lasting results.
When hydrogen and disulfide bonds in the hair undergo reshaping to increase flexibility and absorption, it enables better moisture retention. This, in turn, enhances the effectiveness of other moisture-retaining products such as butters, pomade gels, and heat drying.
While we are massaging the wet stretched hair, water is more absorbed through the cuticles. When disulfide bonds are soften by the presence of hydrogen (water), flexibility of the hair fiber is enhanced.
Illustration by Cumulux Creative
Hair revival through curly methods
Another day at the hair salon, I was facing a peculiar challenge: my client's hair would go limp days after her wash and go. The gel in her hair was abnormally flaking soon after washing. Why did her curly hair go limp and straight in just a few days? At the time, I believed that if hair appeared less curly, it was likely due to recent straightening causing the protein bonds to weaken and be unable to retain moisture. However, her hair had no sign of heat damage, it was just super frizzy. Following the next three months, her hair underwent a transformation by over saturating it with butters to meet its moisture needs and gently coaxing it into a curled structure to retain that moisture. Were the protein bonds too far apart or too close together? Right now there is no conclusive answer. Similarly, I had another client who, by any standard, would be classified as having a type 1 hair texture. Her hair was very limp and had no hold, we can say her hair was wispy. To fix her hair, I proceeded with a normal curl routine, which included washing her hair with our methodology. Next, I applied and left the natural conditioner on her hair. This practice is frowned upon in the industry but it’s necessary to maximize hydration. Lastly, I spread a flaxseed-based gel for hold. When the styling was over, she gave a thank you speech mentioning that her scalp felt lighter and less sore. She was happy that she didn't need to use a curling iron to add texture to her hair. Because of her curly hair routine, her wispy hair became wavy and her scalp healthier. Whether her hair appeared limp due to protein bonds being too close together or too far apart is something we need to study. In both cases, the curly hair methods changed the hair’s look and long-term elasticity of 2 different hair types with distinct characteristics and levels of elasticity. Therefore, loose hair patterns can benefit from curly methods. These 2 clients were able to wash their hair every 7 to 10 days without getting oily or dry hair or scalp. This means that the treatments reshaped damaged proteins and enhanced curl retention. Following the curly hair routine results in better moisture retention, promotes a healthier scalp and hair condition, which leads to more defined curls.
In conclusion, elasticity is a crucial feature regarding the health of hair. We can alter its quality early at the washing step. On the micro scale, during this procedure, different protein bonds interact with hydrogen (from water) which result with more flexibility in the hair strands. As a result of this reaction, it’s possible for everyone to have texture waves and curls naturally with a curly hair routine. Our real life examples of 2 different hair types can attest that Inhairitance’s curly hair routines can really transform the way people feel about their hair as well as having a physical difference. This method is shown to improve the hair and scalp health of anyone who chooses this regimen.
*Phukan, Luna. “Unit 3(II): Proteins”. Dhing College. Accessed August 30, 2023. https://dhingcollegeonline.co.in/attendence/classnotes/files/1602006237.pdf
** Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto, Claudinéia, Tania Cristina de Sà Dias, Nilson Dias Vieira Jùnior, et al. “Hair fiber characteristics and methods to evaluate hair physical and mechanical properties”. Brazilian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, no.45 (2009): 156
† Kingsley, Anabel. “The biology of your hair”. Philip Kingsley. Published April 4, 2022. Accessed August 30, 2023. https://www.philipkingsley.co.uk/hair-guide/hair-science/the-biology-of-your-hair.html