Traction Alopecia: Unraveling the Impact of Hair Extensions and Chemical Exposure
Excessive tension especially while styling will damage the hair
Illustration by Cumulux Creative
A trending disorder
Traction alopecia, a condition characterized by hair loss due to persistent tension on the hair follicles, affects people with different hair types and styles. In this article, we explore the multifaceted factors contributing to this hair loss condition and shed light on the often-overlooked connection between hair extensions and hair problems related to chemical exposure.
Traction alopecia, is caused by excessive tension on the hair follicles, and can be attributed to various hairstyling practices such as tight hairstyles, braiding, and the use of hair extensions and brushes. Trending styles like the tight braid slick ponytails and extensions often involve the use of harmful chemicals including but not limited to petroleum-based substances like mineral oil. Unfortunately, the lack of regulation and awareness, particularly among women, has led to an alarming rise in traction alopecia cases in our salon.
Production of synthetic hair extensions
Hair extensions, particularly those made from synthetic materials like Kanekalon, deserve caution. Kanekalon hair is primarily composed of modacrylic fibers which are created using acrylonitriles, and other copolymers*. The manufacturing process involves dissolving the resulting copolymer in acetone, dry-spinning it into warm air, and then stretching it while hot. It's worth noting that acrylonitrile, a key component in modacrylic fibers, is highly flammable and toxic. It can undergo explosive polymerization, and when it burns, it releases hazardous fumes like hydrogen cyanide and nitrogen oxides. Acrylonitrile has been classified as a Class 2B carcinogen (possibly carcinogenic) by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC), and individuals exposed to high levels of airborne acrylonitrile are more susceptible to lung cancer.
Additionally, hair extensions made from petroleum-based materials like Kanekalon synthetic hair have the potential to break down and be absorbed into the skin, entering the bloodstream and potentially causing infections or other adverse effects. Furthermore, extensions are essentially plastic and often have a larger diameter and greater strength compared to natural hair. When extensions are installed and remain in place for an extended period, they can cause friction and strain on natural hair, leading to split ends, ruptured cuticles and hair loss, which is more likely to occur compared to wearing one's natural hair.
I believe the lack of awareness surrounding extensions has led to inadequate regulations that could minimize toxic exposure for both employees and end users. So many people, especially African women, spend long hours braiding hair and are exposed to toxins through their hands and mouth. Breathing in these toxins can be as harmful as inhaling ammonia from coloring hair. It is essential for Health Canada and the FDA to keep the same energy and prioritize all aspects of health and safety.
Deeper potential harm and inquiries
Many individuals suffering from traction alopecia have reported symptoms akin to chemical burns, raising questions about the role of synthetic extensions in hair loss. This connection highlights the need for further research into the impact of preservatives and additives found in hair extensions. It gives me a pause anytime I think about the toxins in extensions, juxtaposed with the commonly held belief that extensions are a protective style. We must question, what do extensions actually protect? How do they protect the hair? Why is it so popular to think extensions protect the hair?
Clients' concerns about itchiness and reactions to extensions are valid, as these issues may have broader health implications. The chemicals in extensions can potentially be absorbed by the scalp and enter the bloodstream, posing health risks. Over the years, clients have increasingly complained of hair loss, heavy itching, sores and redness on the scalp. At Inhairitance, we perform a detox using bentonite clay, known for its toxin-removing properties. Immediately after the detox our clients have expressed absolute relief. Which is a sign that there were toxins present on their scalp that were successfully removed. Totally scary, I know, but this is why we are discussing and addressing these issues.
Aspiring solutions
To mitigate the risks associated with extension toxins, various strategies can be explored. These include pre-washing extensions to reduce chemical exposure. I’ve heard of apple cider rinsing, however I don’t believe it is the greatest idea as apple cider controls bacteria and is not an anti-toxin solution or exfoliator. Another potential solution in development is the use of natural extensions made from banana leaves. Unfortunately, it pains me to say this but these types of extensions lack a petroleum coating to prevent them from sticking to the hair. So sad but true. Finally, one of the most effective creative suggestions (apart from beach vacations) is using yarn for braiding, as it is less chemically laden. When used appropriately, this style is lightweight and comfortable. While hair extensions remain a significant part of hair culture, finding solutions to minimize the associated risks is crucial for the well-being of individuals who choose this style.
* Hyung Hwang, Jae et al. “Properties of Modacrylic Fibers Prepared from Poly (acrylonitrile-co-vinylchloride)—Experimental and Theoretical Studies on Coagulation and Diffusion during Wet Spinning”. Sage Journals. Published January 21, 2022. Accessed September 16, 2023. https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.14504/ajr.6.S1.4