The Chemical Cicatricial Alopecia Crisis
Chemical Alopecia refers to a hair condition characterized by thinning and the development of bald patches. This not only impacts the visual aesthetics but also leads to scalp itching and tenderness*.
A condition spread across the clientele
Chemical burns are frequent occurrences in the hairdressing world but are often downplayed as a widespread problem. Two of the main culprits of this type of lesion are formaldehyde (found in relaxers) and bleach. And although extensions are different, they can also cause scalp disorders because they contain ammonia sulfates and other chemical products in their preservatives. The reaction between the preservatives and the scalp sweat create a dreadful combination. Even worse, these chemicals from the extensions can prolong damage because they’re being absorbed by the scalp. Contrary to common belief, tight braids were not the perpetrators. I remembered my client coming in complaining about her scalp feeling so itchy and her hair falling out after 2 days of extensions. And then many more clients came to see me for the same problem yet tension was not the factor in this case. Instead, it was due to the extensions touching the scalp, with activated sweat glands, which absorbed the preservatives' residue from the extensions through the open pores on the scalp. Despite the freshness of the scars, surprisingly, it took many months for it to heal and for the hair to restart growing.
A chemical ingredient that is present often in hair products despite the negative outcomes of using them
Illustration by Cumulux Creative
What is formaldehyde used for and how can it affect the scalp?
Formaldehyde is used to embalm deceased individuals. In relaxers, this ingredient is used to straighten kinky hair, essentially chemically altering the hair's structure. This chemical reaction is akin to burning, although less intense. Although globally used in product formulation, this ingredient has quietly ravaged black women’s hair for years. Now, consumers are asking various giants in the industry for answers and are proceeding to sue them. First, we have the infamous formaldehyde allegations regarding DevaCurl’s product line **. Consumers were complaining of burning sensation on their scalp, redness, hair falling out, and hair becoming straighter by using their products. Close to 34,000 people were in a chat room on Facebook trying to figure out how to fix their damaged scalp. Essentially this was allegedly caused by the presence of formaldehyde which often acts as a preservative in product formulas. Apparently, lots of people were told to not rinse out the products which left some customers with the most affected hair strands†.
Investigating the Smidcht lawsuit and its implications for Dark and Lovely relaxer.
Next, there is an ongoing Schmidt lawsuit with the popular brand, Dark and Lovely about their relaxer. Many victims were asking all around social media asking anybody who has had cancer, burns, or any type of hormonal disorder caused by using their product‡. From what I understand, Dark and Lovely has been a go-to relaxer within the black community for decades. However, it's evident that this brand and more has led to numerous cases of scalp burns, various types of cicatricial alopecia, and potentially many forms of cancer and hormonal disorders. However, the lawsuit focuses solely on this brand that is promoted to the black community while excluding other businesses whose products have been associated with the aforementioned medical conditions and diseases as well. This lawsuit does not target other local or foreign relaxers nor does it go after any of the kid-promoted relaxers on the market. This neglect might diminish the true essence of the problem since only one brand was reprimanded, whereas its peers keep operating in different markets while repeating the same tragic outcomes in other communities.
The establishment’s neglect toward a growing problem
With such harmful consequences, I am perplexed by the FDA’s and Health Canada’s indifference regarding this situation. What is the FDA’s or Health Canada’s stance on relaxers, formaldehyde, and preservative combinations? Will these organizations restrict or totally ban the use of these products containing chemicals such as shampoos, conditioners, non-lathering shampoos and others? How will they make amends for permitting products that have potentially harmed hundreds of thousands of women, men, and children through cancer, scalp burns, or alopecia? Under government’s pressure or not, will salons continue to put a relaxer on their clients hair while knowing the negative outcome of using these products? Lastly, what will trigger these entities in the right direction to protect us against toxins and carcinogens manufactured in the market?
Latest cosmetic shake up, the FDA is planning an industry ban on relaxers since they contains health-compromising chemicals. Read more on Globalgrind website. Edited October 25, 2024
As a curly hair salon that takes pride in using natural ingredients, especially those that improve hair without causing straightening, this significantly undermined our credibility in our field. So you could imagine we were very perturbed with the lack of communication and actions of all parties involved. Meanwhile, relaxer brands have a huge case of rebranding ahead of them. Simultaneously, we should keep an eye on how communities react to these lawsuits and the ongoing issues that they promote. Furthermore, the examination of the FDA’s and Health Canada’s stance on formaldehyde and combinations should also be litigated in the court of law and in the court of public opinion. For years, I had to grow out my clients’ hair due to the presence of formaldehyde in products, which negatively impacted my clients’ crown. However, with my methods and teachings, we are gradually helping people to recover their scalp and hair after such a tragic experience.
Erratum
In a previous edition of this article, it was stated that DevaCurl was blamed for including formaldehyde in their product, and they refuted the allegations while asserting that their products were tested by a dermatologist review board and certified by the FDA. In a subsequent statement issued by DevaCurl in 2020, they clarified that their products contain formaldehyde-releasing agents that they deem safe for use. This new information should be considered when evaluating the product’s formulation and safety.
We regret any confusion that may have arisen from the initial statement and appreciated the clarification provided by DevaCurl.
https://www.devacurl.com/us/safety
https://m.facebook.com/groups/DontFWithMyHair/permalink/665316254747151/?mibextid=rOHFeQ
* TrichoSynergy. “Chemical Alopecia”. TrichoSynergy Hair Clinic. Accessed July 30, 2023. https://www.trichosynergy.com/chemical-alopecia#:~:text=Chemical%20alopecia%20is%20a%20hair,cause%20scalp%20itching%20and%20tenderness
** Rizzi, Corrado. “Multiple Class Action Lawsuits Allege DevaCurl Products Cause Scalp Irritation, Hair Loss, Balding”. ClassAction.org. Published February 18, 2020. Updated July 21, 2022. Accessed July 27, 2023. https://www.classaction.org/blog/multiple-class-action-lawsuits-allege-devacurl-products-cause-scalp-irritation-hair-loss-balding
† U.S. Food & Drug Administration. “Formaldehyde in Hair Smoothing Products: What You Should Know”. U.S. Food & Drug Administration. Published February 03, 2021. Accessed July 30, 2023. https://www.fda.gov/consumers/consumer-updates/formaldehyde-hair-smoothing-products-what-you-should-know
‡ Schmidt, Mike. “Hair Relaxer Lawsuits Consolidated in Illinois“. Schmidt & Clark LLP. Updated September 2, 2023. Accessed July 31, 2023. https://www.schmidtandclark.com/hair-relaxer-cancer-lawsuit