Never trim without dusting
There is an overall issue with the vocabulary when cutting hair and in my opinion the techniques do not match the needs of many.
Is your hair easy to detangle when you get your haircut?
Does your hairstyle last a long period of time?
Are you experiencing a lot of frizz after a cut?
Are you still experiencing breakage after a trim?
Does one side of your head have more hair than the other side and was this considered in the trim or shaping of the cut?
If you responded positively to these questions your hairstylist is considering all of your split ends from root to tip. They have considered a technique called dusting that helps to remove any and all split ends that they find between one's curls.
Fundamentally we should not be trimming just the ends of the hair for the following reasons. The hair on one's head is not all the same. We lose about 40 to 100 hair strands a day depending on the anagen (active growth stage) and telogen (resting period) phases, inflammation in the body, trauma, dehydration and other anomalies. To not have the same length throughout the head is absolutely normal. When we consider adding intensive manipulations with combs and extensions, this will produce additional split ends and knots anywhere on the hair shaft. Thus creating more uneven lengths.
If split ends and knots are not removed, the hair can feel dried out and brittle, especially when there is a cluster of them. They dry out the surrounding strands by stealing their moisture to refill theirs because of their inability to retain their own moisture independently. Split ends that are not trimmed can cause tangling from root to tip, and breakage when detangling the hair. Besides, split ends also travel upwards ruining the length of the hair. Thus it would be beneficial to remove them.
How to recognize split ends?
On straightened wet hair, it is very difficult to see them as the hair is weighed down, the hair is also darker so the hairs that are split that will normally separate and dry out faster blend-in making it hard to remove. Combing or brushing the hair when wet to trim the ends will also blend in the split ends in the roots. This is so unfortunate. When the hair has been hydrated and then dried with maximum definition all the split ends that dry faster will separate naturally from the hydrated curls. Because of that natural separation, we have a 360 degrees view of any split end popping out of the curl. When we focus on clumped curls we calculate better for shaping, control accurately the density for either side of the head, producing a longer lasting cut, breakage and tangle free as long as you cater to your curly hair and dry with heat.
Different types of split ends across the hair, roots to tip
Illustration by Cumulux Creative
Why is dusting (trimming split ends that are located everywhere) a regular practiced service that is just done for everyone?
It may take longer for an inexperienced stylist
Is it Laziness?
If the hair will be styled straightened the time it will take to do a trim on freshly washed and dried curls then to rinse and style for straightened hair can be less feasible for scheduling
If the products used cause dryness. (Ex. Sulfates, drying alcohols, mineral oil, petroleum) The hair will not be as hydrated and split ends will be less visible.
Many are used to using a comb to cut hair and this tool will undoubtedly remove the curls and make split ends in the root or middle shaft less visible.
If you are experiencing the issues above or would like to learn how to effectively remove split ends with curly customers, participate in a special cutting session where we promote dusting in our curriculum . Understand that those who do dusting regularly are masters at it and mastery takes practice. Scheduling with an expert should be done in advance. If you have color and straighten your hair often you will require trims more often. Whereas those focused on a healthy hair, unprocessed hair journey will be able to space more time between their trim sessions.
