How to seal your hair?

All hair samples were collected and analyzed at Inhairitance Curl Spa where Michal is the trainer and senior curl expert. This hair salon caters to one of the most diverse clientele and it’s renowned for their specialized skills with curly hair.

Ruptured cuticles on a type 3, Microscopy Laboratory Concordia University

When we seal the hair we are trying to prevent too much moisture loss as well as create a smoother surface for high diameter variation or repair cuticle ruptures for healthier looking hair strands that will be maintained by being clumped in a curl. We also seal to prevent velcroing which causes automatic tangles. To achieve sealing, we do this mechanically when the hair is wet and conditioned by smoothing a thin layer of pomade on key velcroing and porous as well as low elasticity sections. Depending on the hair type we will discuss how to seal using a butter/cream, pomade, and or gel and lastly heat; in which case heat is the final seal for all hair. Heat brings fusion. Fusion keeps the product layers stuck on the hair rather on your pillow, sweaters and hands. When this happens the cuticles will stay layered and cease to velcro together. The porous ruptured cuticles can remain plugged with the sealing of pomade and other layers of product. Finally the low elasticity sections can begin to soften due the heating up of water within the hair; as well as the pomade and other layers retaining the water on the inside of the hair strands.

Zooming in on hair matting where two single hair strands’ cuticles velcro together
Illustration by Cumulux Creative

We do not use cold water to seal because the pH of the water will reopen the cuticles anyway. Adding cold water does not seal the hair, retain more ingredients in the hair or prevent moisture loss. It can however in my experience retain more larger molecules like color from leaking out of a loosened cortex thus can be used to maintain semi permanent colors, and vibrant colors like red and blondes and other non natural colors. 

Type 3 hair journey where sealing and heat drying are emphasized
Photos by Natalie Dascoloff

Finally heat drying is the ultimate sealer. It can allow more product to absorb in the hair, fuse hydrolysed proteins to cuticles, set stylers like mousse styling creams and gel, and allow the cortex not to swell allowing the curls to stay put longer. All of these benefits create a more even surface thus more natural shine, it will also even the porosity of the hair, retaining more moisture, giving your curls and scalp longer life before washing again.