Helix: Our natural protection
There is so much information in curly hair and we will continue to highlight the genuine purposes and reactions of hair with our evolutionary theory. The information we uncover today is that the maintenance of styling the hair as curly and naturally will have better outcomes than straight styling. The natural function of a curl is to maintain moisture, a good elasticity and porosity. It can do this because of the folding and partnering of approx. 10 to 40 hair strands. They exchange moisture and rely on each other for strength in numbers. When the natural curl is not considered in a hair care routine, as individual hair strands they will lose their natural abilities that make it healthier and manageable. Individual hair strands are weaker and therefore need numerous amounts of chemicals like microplastics to thicken each strand to improve its strength and block as much water as possible which is just not practical in tropical and humid environments. A ‘curl’ is shaped at the microscopic level in the form of a helix and can help us understand the purpose of this shape and its benefits of keeping our curls clumped in this pattern. A curl is a helix lookalike. At the microscopic level, the internal structure of everyone’s hair is predominantly made up of proteins that have the same form. And guess what! Our DNA is also helixed in shape and it is or holds the densest form of information in our bodies.
A curl freshly formed during conditioning
Helix*
Noun
a spiral.
Geometry. the curve formed by a straight line drawn on a plane when that plane is wrapped around a cylindrical surface of any kind, especially a right circular cylinder, as the curve of a screw. Equation: x = a sinθ, y = a cosθ, z = b θ.
The concept of a "straight line" in the definition may present certain challenges as it contradicts the fundamental perception of an absence of curves and contours typically associated with our common understanding of this word. The DNA is described to be a double-helix however, it does not wrap around a cylindrical surface, nor does complex protein structures that are the makeup of our hair strands. It is the nucleotides at the center that connect the DNA and give it its backbone. “About 99.9 percent of the DNA of every person on the planet is exactly the same. It's that 0.1 percent that is different that makes us all unique.”** In a protein, it is its hydrogen bonds between its amino acid chains that hold the structure in place. Hair strands are not inherently straight and fold perfectly into their partnering hair strands that then form a sort of helix in the form of C and S patterns. The structure of Keratin, approximately 87% of the hair, is the helix protein structure I’m referring currently.
Alpha Helix†
Noun. Biochemistry
the rodlike spatial configuration of many protein molecules in which the polypeptide backbone is stabilized by hydrogen bonds between amino acids in successive helical turns.
Although clumped hair strands may appear as an uneven helix, it is important to note that the individual strands comprising this helix exhibit significant variations in shape, size, and distribution. This raises an intriguing question: How does something that originates as complex in its structural attributes seamlessly integrate with numerous other complex hair strands, harmonizing their shapes, sizes, and distributions? This combination results in improved moisture retention and enhanced resilience against external forces such as pulling or tying. Comparing the strength of a single hair strand to that of a clumped curl, the latter consistently demonstrates greater resilience. Surprisingly, the hair industry has primarily emphasized strengthening individual hair strands to achieve straight hairstyles, thereby negating the inherent structural design of hair strands to interlock with one another, harnessing collective strength to resist breakage. In essence, this creates a paradox between the rugged individualism promoted in styling practices and the communal strength offered by interwoven strands. By recognizing that the fundamental function of our hair is to interconnect rather than exist as isolated strands, a shift of perspective occurs in our approach to hair styling, opening up a realm of possibilities that deviate from traditional practices. The problems that most people are having may also be solved in changing the premise of haircare. For example, the drawbacks suffered by washing the hair for a straight hair routine, combing the curls out for an afro or “protective styling” are hair loss and traction alopecia, dryness, cuticle ruptures, splits that are randomly located and finally dry scalp issues.
Individual strands vs clumping strands producing an helix “C” shape pattern
Illustration by Cumulux Creative
When washing the hair as part of a straightening routine, the products employed often contain ingredients that contribute to excessive dryness. These ingredients are intended to dehydrate the hair in order to achieve and sustain a straight hairstyle. For instance, the utilization of a sulfated shampoo, formulated with salts that are not entirely rinsed out, can accelerate the drying process when heat is applied to eliminate excess water. Continued use of a drying shampoo can lead to a dehydrated scalp, brittle straw like hair and entangled cuticles. With such damaging outcomes, why does all the advertisements shows us “healthy looking” shiny straight hair? A lot of the maintenance products are filled with micro plastics like silicones. For an increased variation in diameter like type 4 hair, mineral oil and petroleum are combined with micro plastics to create a more even hair shaft and block out any humidity causing breakage to the hair. Remember that our hair naturally wants to remain in community with nature and absorb water from the air. It is important to bear in mind that our hair has an innate inclination to coexist harmoniously with nature, effortlessly absorbing moisture from the surrounding air. However, when we apply chemical products to our hair, we disrupt its natural ability to absorb moisture, hindering its optimal functioning.
Afro styling are combed styles that separate naturally forming helixes. In order to prevent a lot of shrinkage and moisture absorption from the air, a lot of grease is used to coat individual hair strands. Nothing about grease, petroleum or shea butter is moisturizing for the hair. They can seal in moisture if the hair were hydrated after the shampooing with a conditioner that was not rinsed out and the curls weren’t combed out. In an Afro, individual hair strands are picked to circular perfection. In addition to the risk of comb-induced damage, such as rupturing the hair cuticles and causing random split ends, another downside is the ongoing necessity to pick out the hair to avoid shrinkage and the grouping of individual hair strands. The hair wants to fold into itself to protect itself. But afros do not consider that the hair wants to clump. Individual hair strands on tighter curl patterns will not find their partners and shrink randomly. Looser curl patterns will be able to see a slight curl pattern once the hair has absorbed some moisture. The constant manipulation that is required to maintain an afro is counter productive in maintaining hair in a low manipulation and healthy way.
Hair that has been blown out (straightened); curls removed, all water dried out, natural separations on the scalp removed may not be able to maintain a healthy level of hydration for the scalp and hair. This is usually done on “protective styles” (quotations are placed because the majority of the styles placed under this category aren't inherently protective in the way it is styled for straightened hair). By removing the water, the hair loses its elasticity and will transition in a state of high elasticity caused by straightening, crippling its flexibility plus its ability to revert back to its original helix form. Styling on wet hydrated and conditioned hair is the best way to maintain flexibility especially when the water is heated up after the braided coiled or twisted hairstyle is put into place. Curls do not need to be removed to do a majority of the protective styles out here. The premise of a protective hydrated style is to protect the water in the hair, prevent breakage and not harm the cuticles. This would be the case if we understood that maintaining our curly helixed hair was the common law of haircare. But since straightening styles have been the standard of haircare for so long; protective styles with this hair care routine can never produce optimal results in my opinion. Other problematic hair issues due to styling the hair straight beyond a dehydrated scalp is traction alopecia. Finer hair is usually located in the front of the head and the nape of the neck. By braiding, making cornrows, or twisting away from these areas the hair gets pulled out. This traction can be avoided when the goal is to maintain curls and hair lines and avoid tight and full on traction styling.
By maintaining a curly hair routine based in science and common sense, more of us strive to have a healthy hairline as growing people, length retention especially for fine hair and type 4 hair. Remember curls have a natural function to retain moisture as proteins have a natural function to maintain hydrogen bonds and our DNA our human history. Why wouldn’t the original form of hair not also reflect nature in this complex geometry? As a new young researcher, it’s been difficult to piece together the information of undefined morphological distinctions in the original structure of hair. But as we keep this conversation going we can assist our research community by making logical scientific research within the broader community.
*“Helix”. In Dictionary.com, s.v. ”helix”. Accessed July 9, 2023. https://www.dictionary.com/browse/helix
**Technological Solutions, Inc. “Biology for Kids: DNA and Genes”. Duckters. Acessed July 9, 2023. https://www.ducksters.com/science/biology/dna.php
†“Alpha Helix”. In Dictionary.com, s.v. ”alpha helix”. Accessed July 9, 2023. https://www.dictionary.com/browse/alpha-helix